Get your panties pretty and your liquid liner sharp. There’s a New Look in town.
I’ve got to give it to our Funky Little Fashion Troll, he really got it bang on for the economic climate this time. Instead of having his enormous cast-of-thousands, all-singing/all-dancing couture shows which –while undeniably fun– isn’t in the very best of taste at the moment, what with Lacroix’s troubles and the whole unpleasant “global recession” thing, he went old school and did an intimate showing in the Dior atelier.
Intimate, as it turns out, was the word of the season.
Galliano said he was inspired by photographs of Big Daddy Dior dressing his models backstage before a show, and while I never thought I would describe JG as “shrewd” this whole collection, its presentation, design and production rings as just that.
Yes, it’s light and frothy and fun what with the under-as-outer and the corsetry –did you note it’s never vulgar?– but the bones of this collection are strong and smart and mostly wearable right off the runway. Galliano, for all the basques and whatnots, stayed super close to the house and most of the pieces –particularly the jackets which were capital-H heaven– are 30 year pieces, which is where the smart money is right now. I also suspect that by focusing on separates, Dior can maintain their uncompromising quality of couture at a price point that’s a bit more accessible in a recession.
Now are these in my wheelhouse or what?
And don’t think we won’t talk about the shoes. I don’t like dropping serious bank on fabric shoes but:
RIGHT?! I’m not actually just wild for the last pair, but I do think the garter clasps are an awfully clever take on the Dior “D” logo. Oh, and do we even need to start the betting pool as to when Dita Von Teese is going to show up in these?
I actually don’t think Sasha Pivovarova wore this that well, and I suspect it’s only her stature as Model of the Moment that got her in the Bar Suit, which comes straight from the 1947 collection, but she does illustrate the scampy 1980’s undercurrent –see also the Poison Ivy spiral perm– that added a little edge and kept this show from being too costume-y.
This was actually the look that impressed me most out of the entire collection, because it’s just perfect. There is nowhere to hide an error or an errant stitch and the collar is just…how do they even DO that? This is going to be in a costume institute someday. Scout’s honor.
I don’t care who you are, up to and including Olga Sherer who is actually modeling this piece of gorgeousness. If you think you’d wear this better than I would, you are sadly, woefully, painfully wrong. Blessyourheart.
And finally we have the confections:
I’m not just blown away by the enormous gowns this season –although I do expect to see someone on the red carpet in that first eggshell explosion– and I suspect Galliano’s heart wasn’t in it as much as it has been in previous seasons, but it didn’t especially detract from the overall collection.
Click here to see the whole collection: the details of the INCREDIBLE hats, the bags that are going to give Kelly a run for her money and the fantastic make-up, and for those of you who want to chip in and buy me the entire collection for my birthday, thanks everso. I’ll write of you fondly in my memoirs.