Manolo for the Big Girl

Good morning mein schnauzers! (I don’t really speak German, although I HAVE seen Cabaret a bunch of times. Plus I stole the line from the occasionally NSFW Mr Peenee anyhow.)

Today’s blog post is going to be Law and Order style: Ripped from today’s headlines.

Except by “Today’s” I mean “Yesterday and quite late the night before” and “headlines” I mean “conversation I was having with an aerialist cum chef pal of mine who may or may not also breathe fire.”

The question?

Whether one might learn to be photogenic.

Listen, I’m not going to lie: I take a hell of a picture. In person I look like an extremely posh cartoon frog and I’m at peace with that, but on camera? I’m Myrna freakin’ Loy.

See, the things that make people beautiful to look at in real life don’t necessarily translate onto film, so there is absolutely no use hating bad photos of yourself. You DON’T really look like an off-Broadway musical revue staring Lady Bunny as The Elephant Man. It’s just a bad photo.

BUT you can hedge your bets by learning how to fake being photogenic.

How? Easy. Learn how to work your light.

You do this two ways: through makeup (easy) and through posing (easier).

Makeup first:
Most people who wear makeup focus on their eyes and lips and don’t pay much attention to their skin. This, particularly when it comes to photographs, is a mistake. Even if you want to go for “the natural look” for a photo, a little foundation or powder will even out the way light bounces off your face, making for a much smoother look.

For the look above -which was taken last night after an evening out celebrating the newest acquisition of the Château Gâteau Collection of Enormous Sparkly Things: a vintage Kenneth Jay Lane necklace the size of a sheep– I’m actually wearing relatively little on my lips and eyes.

The lips are just a generic tinted lipbalm and for the eyes I simply took my trusty MAC 217 brush and blended Paradise Pearl pure pigment from Coastal Scents over the lid, ran a bit of Milani’s Mediterranean Blue eye pencil along the waterline and along the outer corner of my eye and topped it with a lick of Rimmel Sexy Curves mascara.  I just cleaned up and shaped my brows using an old brown pencil whose make and model have been lost in the mists of memory.

What I did spend a lot of time on was the highlighting and contouring of my face.  For those of us who are fat of face or otherwise not blessed with an aquiline nose, cheekbones so high and sharp people try to commit suicide off them and the generally accepted number of chins (i.e., one) highlighting and contouring the face can be a godsend.

The painfully lovely and exceedingly talented Chapman sisters can teach you this and pretty much everything else you’d ever wanted to know about l’art du maquillage (I say that in French because it sounds nice, the sisters themselves are from Norwich) through their wonderfully accessible tutorials.

Sam Chapman Contouring Tutorial

Of course it doesn’t hurt that Sam Chapman might actually be the most gorgeous woman to ever have lived and if Crystal Renn ever got a look at her she’d be cowering in her technically-plus-size Martin Margiela boots.  I highly commend these videos to anyone with even an sprinkling of interest in makeup. If you’re an old hand, they’ll be inspiring and if you’re new to the wonderful world of better living through eyeliner it’s a great place to start.

So we’ve got the makeup down, right? Now on to posing.

Any small success I had as a photographer’s/artist’s model (my plus-size fashion career was as short as my too-short-for-fashion neck) was because I knew how to literally put myself in the best light.

Part of that is just being aware of your face and how the light hits it. You know when it’s nice outside and you turn up your face to get just that perfect sweet spot of sun? That’s a really natural example of finding your key light.

The undisputed queen of key light was Marlene Dietrich.

Killer bone structure notwithstanding, Dietrich wasn’t a great beauty (and let’s not even talk about the tragedy that is Jean Harlow’s wighat)

but she knew how to play to her light when a camera –moving or still– was on her.

Vivien Leigh and Elizabeth Taylor worked lights well too, but they had the disadvantage of being actually breathtakingly beautiful, too, so it’s not as useful from an academic perspective.

A silly “key light” finding exercise, is to set up a spotlight in your house (yes, this can be a flashlight or a can light on a music stand on your commode) and practice just moving your face around in the light.

Odds are you’ll find some positions where the light just feels better, feels right.

That will get you in the habit of paying attention to the light, so the next time someone wants to snap your photo and you have a second to pose, just lengthen your neck, find your light and you’ll be surprised how much better your photos turn out.

Now someone go find me that charming Mister DeMille.

As you can imagine, Francesca, Plumcake and Twistie receive many, many emails from the PR agencies, peddling various beauty products and personalities. Usually Francesca safeguards you from such matters, but this week she received one which actually might be useful, under the rainy circumstances. It is from the PR firm of the hair and makeup stylists mentioned here:

The stars at last night’s Golden Globe awards managed to look impeccable despite the rain.

However, most women don’t have a team of professional hairdressers, makeup artists and stylists to maintain their look during rainy conditions like celebrities (Francesca says: or assistants to hold the umbrellas on one’s behalf). Celebrity makeup artist Christopher Drummond and hairstylist Philip Pelusi offer tips on weathering the storm during a special event:

Makeup tips from Christopher Drummond

• If it is raining the day of a special event, stay away from liquid foundation, which has a tendency to “melt” and not last as long
• Add a little more makeup than you normally would for all products to prepare for the fact that some makeup will come off due to bad weather. Be sure to add layers to your foundation.
• Use water resistant products, such as Christopher Drummond Beauty products (Veludo Velvet Foundation and Finale Finishing Powder) (Francesca says: natch)

Hair Tips from Philip Pelusi:

• Check the weather report a few days in advance so you can plan to wear your hair up or down. If rain is in the forecast, plan ahead to wear your hair either all up or half up and half down.
• Pulling hair into an updo or half upsweep is the best strategy to stay looking good in rainy conditions because hair is already curled, pinned and sprayed in place. If it gets rained on a bit, hair can simply air dry in place, and it is also easier to keep an updo dry under an umbrella.
• If you wear your hair down and are caught by surprise, make sure to bring a small emergency kit in your purse to a special event with a few hair pins, a ponytail holder and a small purse size hair spray. If hair gets wet, go for a quick style change. Pull hair back into the ponytail and wrap hair around the ponytail holder and secure into place with the hair pins. Mist with spray.

Francesca sometimes reads the blog “Single Dad/Disabled Daughter,” which is pretty much what it sounds like: it is written by a 40-something New England man whose teenage daughter is non-mobile, non-verbal, and cannot communicate in any way. (She laughs and cries, but cannot perform a repeatable action at will to represent “yes” or “no.”)

As “Pearlsky” gets older, Single Dad wants to know from his female readers how he can make his daughter look pretty and well-cared-for, without sexualizing her or crossing into creepy territory:

Should her ears be pierced? Her navel? And if so, should she wear those shirts that show her midriff?

I have always wanted, and still want, Pearlsky to blend in as much as possible . . .  . Yes, I know Pearlsky will never really blend in, so maybe it is so she stands out less?

She is dark haired … do I shave her legs in the summertime when she is in shorts and swimming? Should she wear nail polish? Lipstick? (Those two are probably impractical, but still). How about mascara? If not, why do you? Being a teenager, her skin occasionally breaks out, especially in rhythm with her cycle. Should I try to minimize any acne-like activity? If so, how does that reasoning differ from mascara which would only highlight her beautiful eyes. But then, do I want to highlight anything beautiful about her? If so, why? Why not?

Francesca knows that the intelligent, stylish and friendly women here will have good pointers for this poor stymied man! Read the whole post and share your wisdom here.

P.S. Word to the wise: Single Dad really does not like it when people compliment him for being strong or doing things that they don’t think they could do in his shoes. He is also tired of “Lord bless you and Pearlsky” sentiments. FYI.

BEAUTY.COM (also known as drugstore.com, its partner site) is giving away many freebies this week, which Francesca thought you might enjoy. Just click here and have fun!

*Through tomorrow or while supplies last, get a free cream by Nexcare ($15.99 value) when you spend $25 or more on products by Nexcare, Buf-Puf, or Titrilac.

*Receive a free lash primer ($19.50 value) with any It Cosmetics purchase, while supplies last. Francesca says: if you have short/thin lashes, primer will help them look longer and thicker when you apply mascara.

*If you buy $25 or more of Foot Petals (cushions to place inside your shoes, available in different shapes and sizes), you will receive a free “Peek-A-Shoe” pouch ($10 value) for storing your shoes. Francesca does not know when this expires.

*Through January 5 or when supplies run out, get free travel-size samples of skin cream, hair relaxing balm, and shampoo-for-blow-drying, all by PHYTO, with any purchase.

* Get 20% off whenever you buy three or more “emergency preparedness products” (first aid kits, thermometers, etc.), until January 7.

* Always click on the “Free Samples” and “Gifts with Purchase” links on their home page when you shop.

wearing on her face.

Francesca created such a nice makeup look for herself this morning, and looks so good, she must share it with you! (Squee! as our readers say.)

Context: Today Francesca is sitting in a coffee shop with her computer, working on the various assignments. She is wearing a knit sweater in a light purple, and wanted to look  finished but not overdone. She has blue eyes, very fair skin, and red hair.

You will see that Francesca has a few of the high-end brands, but mostly sticks with the oldie-but-goody name of Maybelline, to which Francesca developed a loyalty years ago when she discovered it is the only brand of mascara that does not make her cry (literally). She does not know why this is the case, but there it is.  Some good things come in cheaper packages, which is the good thing because we spend all the monies on shoes!

Foundations: Laura Mercier powder foundation applied with a large brush; Maybelline Mineral Power concealer blended with a concealer brush; Laura Mercier brow powder duo in Soft Blonde, applied with a small brush. The darker color goes all along upper part of the brow, and the lighter color goes just beneath it. Having two colors makes it look more natural, since our hair is not naturally all one color.

Francesca has pretty good skin (so no need for liquid foundation every time) and rarely wears blush during the day, so this was it for the basic prep before the colors.

Eyes: From the Lauren Luke My Smoky Classics collection, Francesca applied eyelid primer, and then the Cashmere Cream eyeshadow –a cream color with some copper tones — onto the inner half of the lid and just under the brow. Then she applied the  gorgeous Antique Pewter — a grey-blue that picked up the purple a bit from Francesca’s sweater –onto the outer half and into the crease. Then she used the tip of the same brush to pull a bit of the blue color under her lower lid, just a teeny bit of the way in. For eyeliner she used Maybelline Define-A-Line in Slate Grey, just on the outside half of the lids, and used the little sponge at the tip of the pencil to blend the color on top and bottom, creating a slightly smokey look.  And the finishing touch: A dab of pure white eyeshadow (Francesca used Maybelline’s Shadow Stylist in Contemporary White) and blended toward the eye. This makes one look more “awake” and adds a bit of drama. Mascara: Maybelline Intense Volume XXL in Brownish-Black, which Francesca likes because it comes with a primer at one end and the mascara on the other. The primer helps to make Francesca’s woefully short lashes look longer.

Lips:L’Oreal Endless in Fawn Fatale, a fall/winter mauve shade that complemented the purple sweater. This is Francesca’s favorite color ever, and if they ever discontinue it, she will cry as if she is wearing non-Maybelline mascara.

Francesca feels so pretty!

Francesca here, popping in on the weekend to tell you (or remind you) about some sales that end today or soon. Here, in alphabetical order:

One of many spectacular hats of fabulosity from WomenSuits.

Alight is having a big holiday sale, and will take $8 off your order of $40 if you enter code alight878 at checkout.

Ashley Stewart will take 30% off your entire online purchase (excluding sale, clearance and Diva Deal items) “for a limited time.” Also, get a free upgrade to 2-day shipping on purchases of $50 or more.

Avenue will take 35% off your online purchase with code AV91167. This ends today.

JC Penney will give you free shipping through Tuesday with code SHINE25, or click here to print a coupon for use in-store. If instead of the free shipping code you wish to receive 15% off beauty products, use code JCPFF2009, also through Tuesday. Plus-size clothing is here.

Jessica London is having a tremendous, site-wide sale. Ending today, take 30% off your highest-priced item (if you order three or more) with  code JLE4484.

J. Jill will take 25% off any online outlet purchase, or 40% off full-priced jewelry (online or  in stores) through Tuesday.

Junonia has taken 30% off fleece and flannel items, and will give you free mittens and a hat with orders of $75 or more. Both offers end today.

Swimsuits for All will take 25% off your order with code 25NEW. This ends today.

WomenSuits.com will take 20% off your purchase of $100 or more (online or by phone) with code BLESSEDCHRISTMAS. This offer “expires soon.” Can be used more than once. FYI, Francesca has never seen a better offer than this from this vendor, so prices/deals are unlikely to get better. Francesca loves their collection of “church hats,” which remind her of the Ascot scene in My Fair Lady. The Americans are such interesting peoples.

Come back tomorrow for even more sales. xoxo

For information on current clothing sales, go to yesterday’s FFI here.

Designer Shoes adds a new brand, Nota Bene, of whose style and quality Francesca approves. Francesca’s pick: their classic Mary Jane (pictured).

YOOX is having a big sale, including high-end shoes, handbags, and accessories.

Zappos, one of our favorite shoe sources, is offering free shipping both ways as always. Now, additionally, they offer free overnight shipping on clothing. Sizes go up to 40 or 4XL (warning: largest sizes are mostly swimwear). They also sell kitchenware and all sorts of nice gift items like cologne and toys, starting here. Free shipping and return shipping on everything. Francesca says: wow.

Cosmetics Mall is having a big sale on Women’s Fragrances.

Books Online has a menu of book clubs for yourself or someone on your gift list. Francesca loves the gift of the book club!

Smart Bargains has added new items to clearance. This includes home goods, jewelry, women’s apparel (including some plus sizes) and menswear.

Beauty.com will take $20 off your purchase of $100 or more, through December 20. No code necessary. Exceptions: This won’t work for international orders (APO and Territories addresses OK), and won’t apply to gift cards, gift certificates, prescriptions, contact lenses, magazine subscriptions, or the following brands: Aramis, Bare Escentuals, Darphin, Donna Karan/DKNY, Jane Iredale, Lab Series Skincare for Men, Origins, Missoni, Prescriptives, Sean John, Smashbox and Tommy Hilfiger.)

Magazine City provides excellent prices, with no strings attached, on magazine subscriptions. Francesca found some of her favorite fashion magazines for $1 per issue (to US) and under $5 per issue internationally (a very good price, Francesca fears. Living outside the US has its advantages, but certainly not in the realm of access to English-language print media!)

Amazon has set up a page from which you can see their “top holiday deals” FYI, the Gund bear pictured is a free gift if you order $75 or more of toys (also add the bear to your cart).

Sun Jewelry, a vendor of high-end bracelets, earrings, etc, has set up a gift clearance page, with sale items to buy for the special someone (including yourself). Francesca’s pick: Marguise Amethyst and Diamond earrings (pictured).

Happy shopping! xoxo

Brushes by Shu Uemura

Francesca wishes to remind you to wash your makeup brushes.

Here is how Francesca does it:

1. Lay out a towel or washcloth, with one end rolled up so that you can lay the brushes on it at an angle.

2. Spray each brush with an anti-bacterial spray such as Sephora’s Daily Brush Cleaner and gently wipe off any excess makeup onto a paper towel. (You should be doing this on a regular basis anyway).

3. Fill a bowl, cup, or basin with lukewarm water and a little shampoo (not a harsh soap. Baby shampoo is best)

4. Take each brush and swish the bristles in the soapy water. Then gently rub the shampoo-ey water into the innermost bristles, and rinse the bristles under the tap.

5. If the water gets very dirty, replace it.

6. Lay each brush down on the towel in such a way that the bristles are lower than the handle. This way, the water will drip out of the brush, not into the handle. You do not want rusty handles!

7. Air dry and enjoy.